taiwan & thailand in 5 x 5s

in a few days my month of after-service wandering/sweating/eating/photographing my way through southeast asia will come to an end and I’ll set out on one last flight — this time headed for home to put the “R” in my RPCV status (returned peace corps volunteer).

I will certainly miss southeast asia — what am i going to do without all this amazing cheap ‘n delicious street food or coconut flavored everything??! but i dare say it’s high time I go home, stop living out of my backpack, have some chicago deep dish, and finally be with family and friends.

I’ll be seeing you on Monday, America.

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georgetown penang in 5 x 5s

georgetown — just when i didn’t think things could be any hotter. georgetown isn’t only hot it’s hott…but in an old toothless man driving a rickshaw sort of a hott…if that exists  i’m going to say it does. though, this could be the heat making my logic a little bit fuzzy. anyways, tomorrow it’s back to singapore for a few days (time to edit my photos and write some more!) before i head to taiwan and thailand.

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a little travel update from KLP

some of you might be (or might not be) wondering where I am at the moment. I know your life just isn’t the same without my lowercase love!

just to catch you up, i made it safely to singapore, hung out there with my brother for a bit (i have some photos on flickr already) and then hopped over to malaysia for my first real solo trip – greetings from kuala lampur!

I was thinking of doing a “photoblog travelogue” about singapore but I just have way too many photos right now. not to mention, it deserves some well thought out text to go with it…buuuut so far, my travel notes are a bit chaotic and neanderthal-like. I’ll get to sorting my words out soon, I promise.

in the meantime, just so you don’t think I’m dead, here’s a glimpse of some poor quality iphone photos i’ve taken the past two days. there will be more to come!

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на коня // one for the road

while “на коня” literally translates to “on the horse”, it’s a phrase in ukrainian/russian that means “one for the road”. it’s usually the “last” toast at parties, though sometimes people may toast to “the horse’s tail..left leg, left foot…” if they really don’t want things to end. i’ve come to learn many toasts throughout my service, but this one seems the most fitting right now since this will be my last blog post in ukraine — but never fear, it’s not last ever!

i only have 45 minutes till my flight to singapore by way of dubai begins to board so this won’t be very long…not to mention, my brain is kind of spent and on top of that an airport gate with wild children isn’t the most conducive writing environment.  anyways, past few days have been emotionally exhausting, full of even more good-byes, final signatures on peace corps paper work, and last of the last hurrahs. in so many ways it hasn’t hit me yet, nothing really feels different yet. maybe once i get all new underwear and socks i’ll feel like a new person…

yesterday marked my final day as a peace corps volunteer. i finished all my paperwork, had my final exiting interview, and rang the ceremonial “close of service bell”. things have officially come to an end — my service officially completed. I DID IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i’ve gone from PCV to RPCV (returned peace corps volunteer)…even though i’ve yet to actually return.

i’ll take the long way home by travelling around south east asia for a month. i’m pretty sure my brain is on cruise because it hasn’t really realized that i’m going to be in singapore with my brother (who lives there) within the next 24 hours. crazy!!! i’d better get ready to get my sweat on. while singapore will be my base camp, i’ll take a solo trip to malaysia and then my brother and i will travel to taiwan and thailand and then travel home to america on june 17th. WOO WOO!

i hope to blog a little throughout that time, though i’ve told myself i can’t let it take away from actually being there. so, we’ll see what i can manage. but knowing me and how much i enjoy writing, i’ll most likely still be posting. okay, time to get ready to board my plane and leave ukraine…one-way ticket. weirdweirdweirdweird. this is really done. things are really over…

so here’s to the end of my service, to my time in ukraine, the end of a chapter, to the wonderful friends i’ve made, to future travels and new things. here’s to one for the road, the beginning of my long journey home – на коня!

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good-bye village life // leaving site

it only seems fitting that my 200th blog post is the day i leave my village. i swear i didn’t actually plan that, just an epic coincidence. it’s the last day in my village and in a few hours i’ll have to say good-bye. i’m not sure it’s all really hit me yet, the fact that i’m actually leaving…maybe it will once my house is empty and i turn in the key? when we drive away? when my friends send me off on my one-way ticket train? i guess i’ll find out…

before i came to ukraine i remember youtubing videos uploaded by peace corps volunteers and wondered what it all would be like. there was one video from a volunteer (from somewhere in south america i think) recording the final drive away from his site. it was only a minute or so long, there wasn’t even any audio besides the sound of wind rushing and only scenes of green blurring past. i’m not sure why it stuck with me so, i guess because i wondered how that guy felt, what he must have been thinking as he left his home for the past two years. i mean, i was emotional when i moved out and drove away of my last college apartment! it will be difficult to say good-bye.

i got a lot of work done yesterday, more cleaning and packing. i fed some food scraps to the chickens once more, had to strategically corral some wandering turkeys back into their pen, took my last bucket bath (WAHOOO!!), and did about 5 loads of laundry by hand. when i described my day to my mom she said “sounds like little house on the prairie!”. and it is. well…minus me blogging later that day, but i’m just a modernized laura ingalls wilder.

i will really miss village life in some ways — the quiet, the simplicity. at this time in my life, i’m definitely ready to be around people my age and be able to leave the house at night to go somewhere or do something, but maybe someday i can implement certain parts of my village back into my life. i don’t think this would include bucket bathing, but certainly growing some of my own food, canning and preserving, and disconnecting from the world time-to-time.

admittedly, i’m slightly afraid to go back to america and its fast pace of life. i’m sure in no time i’ll be longing for simpler not-everyone-is-on-their-smartphone times of my village i’ve come to love. but not everyone in america is like that, so i don’t have to be either. i’ll just have to find the people that aren’t and make friends with them…maybe some neighborhood babushkas or maybe i should just become amish. ; )

a few months ago i started a running list of things i will miss about ukraine and village life. of course there are things i won’t miss, but i didn’t need to write those down. they were just little things that i worried i’d forget about. i don’t know that i’ll share the list yet, maybe once i get back and figure out what i actually miss. but i did want to write a poem, an ode to village life and to my hobbit house– to a place that has really started to feel like home. a place that i’ll be saying good-bye to today.


good-bye village life
(inspired from margret wise brown’s goodnight moon)

in a village of ukraine
there was a hobbit house
and a dog on a chain
and a picture of
a lady gazing in vain

there were millions of stars and roads with few cars 
and a flock of hens and pigs in their pens
and a little wooden doors and oddly carpeted floors

and backyard beets and homegrown meats
and babushkas that cried “eat!”

good-bye house good-bye house
good-bye picture of a lady with her big titties out

good-bye backyard beets and homegrown meats
good-bye flock of hens and pigs in their pens

good-bye millions of stars and good-bye roads with few cars

good-bye wooden doors and good-bye oddly carpeted floors

good-bye scent of swine and good-bye domashnee wine

good-bye bucket bathing and good-bye cats of the night a wailing

good-bye to the dog on a chain

and good-bye to the babushkas that cried “eat!”

good-bye quiet, good-bye lovcavore diet

good-bye greenhouse and good-bye occasional mouse

good-bye to village life and my homey hobbit house

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interesting art choices

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laundry and shower bucket // washing sheets is the worst

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one of these doors is not like the other // hobbit sized door

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flocks of hens

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pigs in a pen

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and a dog on a chain

the final countdown // last day of teaching in ukraine

i usually like to have my thoughts and emotions pretty well sorted out before i write a blog post, but this time, since i’m not exactly sure when my thoughts will be sorted out and i also sort of hope this will help, i’mmmmm just going to go for it.

wednesday marked my last day of school. ever. well, not ever because i’m going to graduate school in the fall (woo!), but ever for me teaching in ukraine. my 2 years of service as a TEFL teacher is really coming to an end. people have asked me “soooooo, how does it feel?” and i usually give them a mixture of emotions. believe me — there were many a days when i could. not. wait. to be done teaching, i think every teacher feels that way at some point, but i knew saying good-bye to my students would be difficult, i love those kids! the smiles on their faces, hugs in the hallway, and over-eager “hellow!”s were really what reminded me to keep going.

teaching in ukraine was…challengling (to put it lightly). when i look back on just how much i was able to deal with (i have some real classroom horror stories) and how much i was able to adapt, i can’t help but feel proud. i did it! though, i didn’t always know that i could.

last summer, not long after my site transfer to my current village i struggling to integrate all over again. i was having doubts that i wanted to continue, starting over wasn’t easy, and i just wasn’t sure it was worth it. i struggled with questions of “am i actually doing something here?” “is it really noble to just finish just to finish?” “when do i put myself and my happiness first?”. you know, easy questions. these questions floated around my head that summer and on my visit home to america in july i was legitimately close to not coming back.

i talked it through with my family and friends, they all worried about me and my happiness, but in the end i got on that plane, determined that leaving now would only be something i’d regret later. i was already on pretty shaky ground once i came back to ukraine so when my boyfriend in america broke-up with me,  i was a mess. i felt like my limits were reached and i knew i couldn’t manage everything living alone in ukraine — or so i thought. i contemplated for days if i went home and what i would do. i sat in my favorite park in kyiv thinking and pouring over any peace corps handbook i could about mid-service crisis and early termination (of service, not pregnancy).

i’m not even really sure what changed my mind exactly, i think some of the conversations i had with my mom in america popped-up in my head again — conversations on commitment and the pride i’ll have when i can say that i’ve completed all of my service. that summer she never once said for me to come home. at the time that was all i wanted her to say, but she didn’t, and i couldn’t be more thankful.

that summer was the most unpleasant, challenging, lowest moment of my service here. i wanted to give up almost everyday. with 9 more months left to go i had to actually write a note of encouragement on my fridge that said “going home is NOT an option! you’re almost there!”. so cheesy i know, but i looked at it everyday and pep-talked myself into believing that i could, taking things only one day at a time.

for the past few days i’ve been busy packing and getting ready to leave my village for good — strange to think. when it came time for me to clean off my fridge i couldn’t help but think of where i was in my life when i wrote that message. my heart aches for the version of myself back then. but i think i knew then that it would all be worth it in the end, even if i had to convince myself every day.

and here i am, i stayed. and on my last day of school the feelings of pride, accomplishment, and fulfillment were, albiet not a great as what i thought one would feel before i coming to ukraine, but still great none the less. to this day i occasionally wonder if what i did was actually important or if i did enough, but i know i’m not the only volunteer that feels this way.

i’m thankful to myself for staying. in deciding to finish my service i formed even closer invaluable friendships with other volunteers here, really grew to love my second site placement — my village, my host family, my school, my hobbit house, my new site mate. it is unfortunate that my whole service couldn’t have been here from the start, and i feel somewhat guilty for only living here for 14 months vs. 24 months, but i’ve learned so much about myself as a person going overcoming the challenges i faced in my service here. it’s been a long 26 months, it’s time to go home.

on my last day of school i donned my souvenir purchases (traditional ukrainian outfit of a vyshyvanka and floral head piece) to leave a good last impression. my school gave me a farewell speech at the linequa (announcement line-up), a few souvenirs, my fifth formers filled my arms with lilacs from home, and many a photo sessias were had.

the day didn’t really seem real, even though i was dressed so un-american-like. i didn’t really get a chance to say good-bye to most of the teachers, one english teacher left without a farewell, and a lot of my students were absent. honestly, more fan fair was made when my parents came to visit, there was no good-bye concert or teacher-made varenyky, but that’s okay, i probably would have been balling my eyes out if the kids started singing to me anyways. i was thankful i brought tea and baked my mom’s poppy seed bread and peanut butter cookies to share with the foreign language teachers after school, it gave us a chance to sit and talk one last time. it was a rather quiet celebration, a somewhat nonchalant good-bye, which i guess was probably for the best.

i don’t think it has sunk-in that i’m really done teaching, that this would be the last time i’d see these kids and step into the classroom. it’s a weird feeling — while my official close of service date is the 16th, i’m basically done. the service i’d dreamed about for years has basically come to an end. it gives me a lot to think about, a lot to process, a lot of emotions to sort out…not to mention a lot of stuff get rid of before moving-out!

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my sweet 5th formers

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with the school director (left of me) and foreign language teachers

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treats n tea

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photo sessia

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good-bye school!


may eleventh

i have two bottles of my favorite ukrainian christmas beer i’ve been saving since the holidays…that’s one beer for each night i have left living in my village — it’s time to savor everything (beer included). it’s hard to believe that things are coming to an end and before i know it i’ll be moved out of my hobbit house. i’ve been kind of overwhelmed with packing even though i’m basically giving all my stuff away. since i’m done with school, the only thing i have to do is pack and fill out some final peace corps papers which gets pretty boring. so i figured i’d procrastinate a little and enjoy my last few days in the village.

since early april i’ve been saying good-bye to fellow volunteers, host family, co-workers, shop owners, school, students, etc…it’s been like ripping a band-aid off ever so slowly. it’s been awful. not that the good-byes are awful, but no one wants to them to drag on and on and on. i’m looking forward to being done with this phase. but i did have one more good-bye to give to the post-office ladies. i didn’t want to leave without letting them know i’d gone home and not just disappeared. peace corps told us of a story in which villagers contacted peace corps asking where the american had gone because they didn’t say good-bye. ha!

so i took a break from semi-productivity and headed out with my camera to the post-office and then the city to print some photos for gifts. i was kind of bummin the past few days because i’ve basically finished everything and now i’m just doing nothing but waiting to leave. it was hard to say good-bye to my students and things felt kind of unfinished in a way — though are any good-byes ever really? but the break i took from packing turned out to be just what i needed.

as i walked to the post-office i went my normal route hoping to capture a few sneaky photos of decorative front yard gates i enjoy passing on a daily basis. my camera was out and ready to go when i heard my name and three of my favorite 5th formers came running towards me. “miss kristen!! miss kristen!!” they shouted with glee as the ran to me full force with open arms and enveloped me with hugs. i felt so loved! i was so glad i captured the moment of them running towards me, smiles on their faces. they linked arms with me and directed me to a bake sale table they’d set-up infront of their house. it was the cutest thing. i chatted a little with their mothers who were supervising and bought a few muffins from the girls. they were all smiles to have seen me one more time. i’ll miss those sweet kids so much, but i think seeing them one last time, leaving me with that memory of them running to greet me, was just what i needed, and just how i want to remember it.

i continued my walk to the post-office with such a smile, a little more closure and peace of mind. at the tiny post office i mailed my last letter home and said good-bye and thanks to the post ladies who were always so kind to me. i bought my favorite ice cream bar one last time (vanilla ice cream with poppy seeds and a white chocolate shell with sesame seeds, yum!) and waited for the bus to head into the city. when i sat down at the bus stop a man sitting there began to talk with me, or really, talk at me. he first thought i was german, but when i told him i was american he had much to say — about our educational system, drugs, crime, flowers, cars…he was a mr. chatty cathy. i think i said maybe a total of twenty words to him but when the bus came he gave me a handful of chocolates he pulled out from his bag and told me to eat them to my health.

once in the city i headed to the photo store for some prints. i’m now on a name-based terms with the (rather attractive) young man that works there. as i was telling him which prints i wanted he looked at me, pulled a mirror out from behind the counter and said, ‘you’ve…you’ve got something on your lips”…sure enough i had some left over ice cream hangin around. can’t take me anywhere!! i’m pretty sure i blushed majorly, but at least, unlike my bus stop friend, he was kind enough to tell me.

i had some time to kill while the rest of my photos were being printed so with my camera i headed to the bazaar. i’ve only taken a few photos of the bazaar but there were more shots i wanted to get. normally, i don’t have the balls to take them, but since i’m leaving, i don’t really care if they think i’m weird. i still had to explain myself most of the time — no, i dont’ work for the newspaper, no i’m not a spy, no i’m not a professional, this is just for my personal hobby. people here are very very suspicious of strange looking people taking photos, but i would be too. i’ve gotten some angry comments while taking photos, but i’ve found if you explain yourself and ask with a smile and a compliment, they’ll oblige. so now you can enjoy some bazaar photos — courtesy of me growing a pair.

since the day was just so nice out (it’s been cloudless and in the upper 70s-mid 80s since…since winter ended basically. it’s lovely.) i decided to walk back to my village from the city. it’s about 2.25 miles or so but i really didn’t have anything else to do (besides things i didn’t want to do). i walked slowly and took in the scenery. on the way i was offered ice cream by some young men. when i replied no thanks they rebutted with “but you’re lips are so red today!”…not sure how that makes an argument for eating ice cream but it make me laugh. oh, how everyone is in such a better mood when it’s not winter!

’twas lovely last saturday in ukraine.

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one (of the few) paved roads in the village. kids love to skateboard here.

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new graffiti in the village — i like it!

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5th formers running to greet me

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their bake sale table — too too cute

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such loving students, i’ll miss them!

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a house selling lettuce

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ukrainian flag near the village post office (the colors represent blue skies over wheat fields)

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bazaar in melitopol

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this man was friendly (and also thought i was kind of weird)

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wearing a cabbage hat to promote eco-friendly clothing

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green

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the meat house — these ladies were funny.

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a hopeful stray waiting outside the meat house

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labyrinth of clothes

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one of the village bus stops

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on the walk home

salat vinaigrette version 2.0

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some of you might be thinking…”hey! you’ve already posted this recipe!” and yes, this is true, you got me. i posted it more than a year ago…BUT over the past year i’ve come to some sort of salat vinaigrette revelation. it’s by far my favorite salad in ukraine (favorite because it’s the one that doesn’t have mayonnaise). i’ve eaten so much of it i’ve become, as some might say, a sommelier of salat vinaigrette — and by some say i mean just me. my original version of this recipe is fine, great even, for those who don’t have much vinaigrette experience, but as it turns out, i think i’ve been making mediocre salat this whole time! *gasp!*

maybe it’s because i’m american or because i hesitate every time i add oil and salt. or maybe because i didn’t get the secret from my host mom until now, but ukraine decided it was time for a mediocre salad intervention. this came in the form of my salat vinaigrette going mostly untouched by ukrainians at a dinner party later followed with words of salat advise from my host mom. on my last visit to my training host family my host mom natasha and i made salat vinaigrette together. i looked at her inquisitively when she tossed in some sugar to the salad. told me so sternly, knife in-hand as she poked the air with each staccatoed word, “look — kristen, you must understand, beets. love. sweet.”  it felt as if were were talking about something much more serious than salad — but then again, she takes her salad making pretty seriously.

while it was the first time i’d heard of sugar in this salad, i searched the internet for any other sugary suggestions, but this must just be a mama natasha thing. it seemed odd, but really the whole sweet n beet thing wasn’t new to me. when cooked grated beets are cooked in a frying pan they caramelize and leave a wonderful slightly sugary crust. but prior to ukraine i don’t know that i’d ever even eaten a beet (gasp!). i love veggies but, uh, no one eats them in america. okay, i’m sure some people do, but really for the most part, it’s not a staple of our diets. which is a pity because i’ve come to LOVE beets. they’re so cheap and nutritious i throw them into everything! salad, soup, beet rostie, brownies, coffee. okay, just kidding on that last one.

so thanks to my host mom, my beet and salat vinaigrette education has become even more fine tuned and i’m confident that the next time i make this salad, ukrainians will most definitely approve.

salat vinaigrette // салат винегрет

8 servings

3 medium beets, whole and unpeeled
2 medium carrots, whole and unpeeled
3 medium potatos, whole and unpeeled
2 large dill pickles
1 medium onion
1 small can green peas, rinsed, and drained
2 – 2 1/2 tablespoons sunflower oil (canola oil)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 – 1 teaspoon black pepper
handful of chopped parsley

1.) in the evening, in a large pot of water boil beet (for 20 minutes), carrot and potato (for 10 minutes). turn off heat, cover the pot, and leave vegetables to soak till morning. leaving to soak overnight is essential!

2.) in the morning, peel and cube beet*, carrot and potato into fairly small pieces.

3.) chop pickle and onion, and combine with the root vegetables in a large bowl.

4.) add peas/beans, oil, salt, sugar, pepper, parsley. mix thoroughly.

5.) best served room temperature and store in fridge.

*be sure to wear an apron when cooking with beets!

yields: 8 servings

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